"I just kept thinking it would get better." Sunita Gonsalves began making the local delicacy unlike any other—and today, she runs a thriving business built on grit, resilience and flavour
Sunita Gonsalves has been making delicious chicken pattice pavs in Chulne village in Vasai for 18 years now. Photo Courtesy: Nascimento Pinto
Nestled in Vasai's Chulne village, Sunita Gonsalves has been serving a chicken treat for over 18 years. Back then, it was relatively unknown, but now, several similar shops have sprung up across the north Mumbai region.
The roadside shop, painted green, is adorned with a photo frame of Jesus Christ and Mother Mary. Though it has no name, it’s synonymous with Sunita Gonsalves’ food, as many Vasaikars make a beeline to feast on her signature egg batter-fried patty—made with finely minced spiced chicken, mashed potatoes and coriander. Today, she also sells vada pavs, but over the years, she has become known for the chicken delicacy. Ask her if she thought about financial independence when starting her business, and she says that never occurred to her, but is happy that she was able to contribute to the family expenses.
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Love for cooking
She started selling the chicken pattice pav because of her passion for cooking. “At the time, my son Damien was only a year old," she laughs, while revealing how she started by selling it just for Rs 8 in 2007. "However, the first three years I did face many hurdles, as not many people were buying it. I think it was because people had less money then," Sunita adds.
After her business picked up in 2010, she used to make about 150 pattice pavs a day and earn about Rs 10,000 per month. "It was a lot for that time though, and it helped me help fund my children's education," reminds Gonsalves, who hails from Giriz village not too far away. She came to Chulne after getting married in 1997. Her husband works for the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC).
The Vasaikar is a woman of few words, but when she goes about with her cooking and selling, she transforms into a businesswoman who has not only built a relationship with locals but also those in other neighbourhoods like Manickpur, and even Mary Villa, among others. She explains, "On Sunday, I approximately make 400 chicken pattice and 500 vada pav. I buy 900 pavs."
People usually buy from her after attending the mass at the nearby church, or to quickly grab their fix for breakfast before going on their way. Some even eat the delicacy at the shop, while chatting with her to share life updates, or simply share a joke about neighbours, but not without a little mischief. All the while showcasing how her food keeps them coming back. “I don’t have change, so keep the money, and I’ll take it later,” one regular quickly says.
She works from 7am to 10am on Sundays and from 5pm to 7pm, Monday through Saturday, during which she prepares approximately 250 chicken patties each day. Through this effort, she earns around Rs 50,000 per month. What kept her going during the tough times? “I just kept thinking it would get better and continued working hard,” she says.
Sunita’s shop is open daily, except Sunday evenings, and when there is a festival or feast. When she is not selling the chicken pattice pav, she is busy taking catering orders, which come from across the town, and one that she does with full zest, as she is always smiling.
While she earlier had another neighbour Rosy Correia to help her, the latter shifted residence two years ago, leading her to find a helper to carry out operations.
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Taking the legacy forward
Now, 18 years later after she started, Damien also helps her when he is not going to work for his internship. As life would have it, he is in the hospitality sector. Ask the 19-year-old if he got inspired by looking at his mother build her business, and he says, "Yes, it is somewhere because of that but also because there is so much scope in the food and hospitality sector today, to start any food business. I have learned a lot from my mother, especially how she talks business with people."
Clearly influenced by his mother's work, the next-generation Gonsalves family member does plan to continue the business. "Yes, I plan to continue this. We plan to renovate the shop, and if we are going to grow, we will do it here in Chulne only," adds Damien proudly.
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