From Bandra to Worli: This restaurant in Mumbai has a new address and identity

Casava Tuk Chaat

Who would've guessed that restaurateur Suren Joshi - the force behind Sukoon, Javaphile, among others - would trade his comfort zone in Bandra for the raw, rustic charm of Worli's Koliwada village? But in a city where soaring rents (especially in Bandra) can kill even the boldest dreams, Joshi found an opportunity he couldn't turn down.

"I was made an offer I couldn't refuse. The location came at a great price and everything just logically and financially made sense," he says. "We wanted to create a space where the dining experience flows seamlessly - from the first sip to the last bite. A place that's vibrant yet grounding, where the spirit of Mumbai meets our family's signature warmth and hospitality."

In the newest two-storey avatar of Joshi House, there's a bar, the flavours are elevated and the vibe is still cosy. You are minutes away from the shore, tucked between leafy bylanes and coastal breeze that can be enjoyed from the ground floor outdoor seating and a waiting patio area. The Joshi family's Rajasthani heritage weaves itself into every corner of this new space - not with loud declarations, but with quiet, thoughtful detail. From Jaisalmer stone jali screens to terracotta pots adorned with painted tigers, the design draws from a palette of sun-washed memories and bold traditions.

The Joshi family's Rajasthani heritage weaves itself into every corner of this new space - not with loud declarations, but with quiet, thoughtful detail

Step into the reception and you're met with a patio-style seating area that channels the charm of an old-world hotel lobby, wrapped in greenery and nostalgia. Brass accents, carved wood, and hand-painted signs come together in an earthy, tactile story that unfolds floor by floor. Upstairs, the first floor is bathed in warm yellow cement, where sculptural wooden chairs and layered textures balance solid and serene - perfect for lingering over shared meals and slow conversations.

Climb higher, and the mood deepens. The second-floor bar is swathed in moody purples and dusky shadows, with vaulted ceilings, hand-painted tigers leaping across the walls, and windows framed by treetops. A cosy, elevated hideaway where the night unfolds at its own pace - intimate, inviting, and unmistakably personal.

Kerala Choklet Ganache

The menu is diverse and Indian, spotlighting Worli's coastal flavours. At the helm is Chef Richard D'Souza, who is very confident about the focus of this menu on Indian flavours. "We've leaned fully into Indian cuisine," he says, adding, "It's what the name stands for, and we're embracing it wholeheartedly, without confusion."

He is particularly happy that it celebrates this vibrant neighbourhood's daily catch, fresh produce, regional spices, and a contemporary take on Indian dishes across the country. "We've interacted with the locals here, gone to the spice market to customise the flavours, and we get along really well with some of the fisherfolks from the village - while we do have our steady supplier, these promise to bring by any special catch that we can use in the menu too. You can feel the warmth and unity in every interaction.

Ghevar

We tried the truffle mushroom kulcha (Rs 450), a decadent twist on the classic flatbread. It has a heady, umami-packed filling wrapped in a golden, crisp-edged kulcha that's both comforting and luxe. The cassava tuk chaat (Rs 350) with crispy cassava, crème fraiche, yellow pea curry, and mango chutney is a visual and hearty treat.

The dal makhani (Rs 550) with smoked ghee is simmered perfectly and hearty. So is the murg tariwala (Rs 650) - ideal with rice. But our true favourite was the truffle palak saag (Rs 650), which pairs beautifully with creamy burrata and tempered garlic. The Kolhapuri lamb chop (Rs 450) is all things fiery and slow-cooked.

The seafood lineup pays homage to Worli's roots as a traditional Koli fishing village. Dishes include Bombil fry (of course), buttery crab pepper fry, paturi macchli, Tellicherry grilled pomfret, and lobster ghee roast served with soft neer dosas. The grilled kokum prawns (Rs 1,200) we had were simply sublime.

Grilled Kokum Prawns

At the bar, the cocktail program takes a playful turn. Classics are reimagined with unexpected ingredients, from parsley-and-prawn distilled rum to banana-infused campari. Highlights include the nutty nomad, a peanut butter and bourbon mix brightened by campari and banana; verdant vibes, a cucumber and coriander gin cocktail spiked with cherry tomato and yuzu; and the bold sea spice, which channels the ocean with prawns-distilled rum and green chilli. It's a menu made for the curious, offering everything from tropical freshness to late-night decadence in a glass.

Richard D'Souza and Suren Joshi

We ended the meal with ghevar (Rs 550). Served in a mithai box, it had desi ghee, malai rabdi, kulfi ice cream, and sliced mango. Our favourite was Kerala choklet ganache (Rs 650), which had 75 per cent dark Kerala organic chocolate, cherry cream, torched meringue, and cacao nib tuile. The paan magnum (R450) is what desi dreams comprise - Banarasi paan, white chocolate, pistachio, and mukhwas - in a whole bar of ice cream.

In a neighbourhood like Worli, where contemporary Indian dining still feels like uncharted territory, it promises to fill a much-needed gap.

WHERE: Joshi House, next to Desai Oceanic, VB Worlikar Marg, Worli Village