A true homecoming: Michelin-starred Chef Sameer Taneja dives deep into his love for Indian food

Oysters two state

As he strolls through the winding lanes of Varanasi, Michelin-starred Chef Sameer Taneja of Benares (Mayfair, London) lights up talking about a humble discovery - a tall glass of lassi from a tiny spot called Rajaram Lassi.

"I've never tasted anything like it," he says, eyes gleaming. "It was made from the creamiest yoghurt, with just some sugar syrup. But the magic was in the way he churned it. And of course, there is something about the milk in Banaras. It's like the city breathes dairy and sweets. Coming here always feels like truly coming home."

In that moment, the Michelin star fades, and what remains is the joy of a chef who's just had his heart stolen by a glass of lassi.

Doda burfi treacle

Last weekend, Taneja collaborated with Indian Accent for a sold-out pop-up in Delhi and Mumbai, bringing together two globally celebrated restaurants for a rare culinary showcase. We saw a finely tuned menu of inventive dishes like sour apple pani puri, samosa ragda tartlet, goat's milk paneer tikka, and daulat ki chaat with rose petal chikki. "Indian Accent isn't just a restaurant - it's an institution. The kind you don't need a reason to admire, only the privilege to be part of. I feel lucky to have been part of it through this pop-up with Chef Shantanu Mehrotra. I'm proud of what we created together - it exceeded even my own expectations. Cooking in India has been a dream. It took 24 years to come full circle, and I couldn't have asked for a better homecoming than with the legendary Indian Accent."

People often ask Taneja the true meaning of fine dining. Is it the plating? The setting? "For me, it's simple: take exceptional ingredients, cook them with care, serve them with energy and intent in a thoughtful space - that's fine dining. Both Benares and Indian Accent share that ethos. It's about how diners are welcomed, how each dish is crafted, and how the experience is delivered," says the French-trained cook, who had initially found it very challenging to learn and execute his mother's cuisine. "But what a joy it's been," he says adding, "I consider myself fortunate to have started cooking the food of my roots. I'm still learning - understanding the nuances of spices and how they work - but I cook from my experiences and my travels. Over the years, I've worked with chefs like Pierre Koffmann, Michel Roux Pascal, Daniel Peterson, and Vivek Singh, Jitin Joshi. Through those experiences, I also learned how to balance spice with finesse. My style remains rooted in classic technique, but the heart and soul of my food is 100 per cent Indian - deeply connected to my heritage. I call what I do ‘deep-rooted Indian food.' It might look different on the plate, but your palate will know - it's intense, honest, and unmistakably Indian. I'm proud of that."

Rajasthani Gatte

Taneja comes to India two to three times a year for work, and to see his mother. After Varanasi, his next stop is Lucknow, then Amritsar before heading back to London. "In Mumbai, I ate so much, I genuinely lost count of how many dishes I tried or how much food made its way to my plate, but what I do remember is that every single dish was better than the last. Each meal, every bite, was memorable in its own way. I'd be biased if I said I had one clear favourite - it all blended into this beautiful new memory I'm carrying with me like a souvenir.

We explored quite a few places in the neighbourhood.

Those that left an impression were Papa's, and Bandra Born in Bandra. Soam and Swati Snacks have always been close to my heart."

Sameer Taneja

Heading home, Taneja packs back, "memories, of course - so many of them. Memories of eating my way through India. But also, two very important suitcases - one just for food! I pack them with fresh vegetables, the kind you just can't find in the same way back in London. As soon as we land, we chop and freeze everything - trying to stretch that taste of home for at least ten days. My bags are bursting with seasonal Indian produce including greens and gourds that carry so much nostalgia. For a week or two after I'm back, our family dinners feel like celebrations. It's not that we don't get these vegetables in London - we do - but not with that same fragrance, flavour, or freshness. It carries the soul of the soil.

I handle them with so much care, like edible treasure. And yes, I carry a ton of dry goods too - spices, snacks, namkeen… whatever I can get my hands on. I don't know what you'd call it, but to me, it's just a suitcase full of love."