Kya aapke sunscreen mein SPF 50 hai? Debunking myths about sun protection skincare

As per WHO standards, SPF 30 is the minimum Indians should be using. Pic/istock

Do we truly need a sun protection factor (SPF) of 50, or is it just savvy marketing? How do we know which sunblock is right for us? These are questions that have come up since the very public stand-off between Hindustan Unilever Limited (HUL), the parent company of Lakme, and Honasa Consumer Limited, the parent company of MamaEarth, over whose sunscreen is better.

In recent times, online discourse over sun protection skincare has leaned towards misinformation. And Gen Z seems to be the most susceptible to it. In a May 2024 survey, the American Academy of Dermatology found that 52 per cent of Gen Z adults were unaware of one or more risks of sunburn, such as increased odds of skin cancer or premature skin aging. In fact, while over 50 per cent of Americans get a grade of A or B for their sun protection knowledge, 32 per cent of Gen Z adults receive a failing grade of D or F.

Dr Reshma T VishnanI, Sakshi Rawte Dhar and Natasha Parekh

In yet more worrying data, the Orlando Health Cancer Institute found that one in seven (14 per cent) adults think that daily sunscreen use is more harmful to the skin than direct sun exposure. Nearly a fourth (23 per cent) of the respondents believed that merely drinking water and staying hydrated can prevent sunburn.

Data from India is equally shocking. An HUL spokesperson reveals, "Only about 3.3 per cent of our population uses sunscreen, according to [consumer research agency] Kantar Worldpanel. Given India is a high-UV-index [on an average of 9-16 during summer] country, it is crucial for consumers to incorporate sunscreen - including re-application - into their daily routine."

Journalist Sakshi Rawte Dhar has been writing about skincare for a long time. On Instagram, she goes by the handle @leavesakshialone, and has garnered a decent following (33,000) for being authentic about who is out to dupe us and who isn't. Dhar tells us about the recent influx of influencers misrepresenting "dadi ke nuskhe" as adequate sun protection, "which it isn't".

"Homemade sunscreen is being represented as "chemical-free". The younger generation has somehow got the idea that sunscreen is merely chemicals and not worth applying at all, which is a big problem," the 27-year-old tells us. "As a result, we are seeing people going out with no protection at all. Today, with the added risk from climate change and unprecedented depletion of the ozone layer, sun protection should be non-negotiable," she adds.

Making sunscreen at home is highly dangerous as UV filters are notoriously unstable if not formulated well, which is not something the layperson knows how to do," says Rhea Sugwekar, a cosmetic regulatory researcher who has been in the industry for over seven years.

"Sun protection is serious science, and this is why we want to raise awareness of this issue among the population," says HUL's spokesperson, "Proper formulation of sunscreens to ensure photo-stability on the skin is critical. Since 2015, we have been conducting in-vivo [on skin] tests to establish the photoprotection and the SPF/PA levels of our sunscreen. We have also been raising awareness with regulators to make this testing mandatory."

Sunscreen is surrounded by myths, says Sugwekar, from claims that it prevents tanning - "It doesn't" - to assertions that brown skin doesn't need sun protection. "Ironically, one of the biggest lies around sunscreen is that it's loaded with chemicals and can, therefore, cause cancer. "Rather, sunscreen prevents skin cancer from excessive sun exposure," she counters.

Not all young consumers fall for the lies though. Konark Gaur, Chief Marketing Officer at homegrown beauty brand Pilgrim, says, "The truth is Gen Z is one of the most aware generations when it comes to sun protection...and have embraced sunscreen as a non-negotiable part of their routine. While there may be questions around the need for higher SPF, it stems more from a desire to make informed, ingredient-conscious choices than from fear or misinformation."

So which sunscreen is the best? And how can the layperson gauge whether a brand is truly meeting its promise of a high SPF? "There's no way for the common man to know that," says Dhar, "The number one mistake most people make is to not consult a dermatologist for suggestions based on your skin type and sun exposure."

And do we really need SPF 50? At the end of the day, it's your choice, says Dr Reshma T Vishnani, consultant dermatologist, trichologist and aesthetic dermatologist, Kokilaben Dhirubhai Ambani Hospital. "SPF 30 is generally sufficient for most Indians if applied 20 minutes before sun exposure, and reapplied every two to three hours, especially outdoors. But SPF 50 or higher is recommended for those who are at higher risk or have more exposure," she adds.

A lot of people do not realise that their jobs should determine sunscreen usage, says Natasha Parekh, who has her own skincare line called Vaunt Skincare. "It's mostly needed for mid-day exposure, which leads to sunburn, dark spots and age spots. If you're out running or swimming a lot then, yes, it [SPF 50] is needed," she says.

The verdict is in: When in doubt, seek an expert's opinion, but definitely use sunscreen so you stay sunkissed, not sunburnt.