Actor Mona Singh teams up with chefs Jasleen Marwah and Neetu Solanki to open an inspired, desi food-focused resto bar in Andheri
(From left) Neetu Solanki, Jasleen Marwah and Mona Singh. pics/DWEEP BANE
Kona Kona is literally nestled in a corner end of a building, off Andheri’s New Link Road. The 95-seater, spread across an indoor and alfresco area, has bright red windows contrasted with green walls and a Duckman mascot that juts out of the indoor walls at two spots. It is flanked by black-and-white frames reflecting the Mumbai vibe. Red lanterns lift the space and highlight the emerald green tiled bar front.
We begin our experience with Bihari nimki (instead of fries) with TP chutney (Rs 149) and a Madame Titli (Rs 599) cocktail that comes in a trio of gin, campari and cointreau. It is also a women triumvirate who has created this space. Chef Jasleen Marwah who gave Kala Ghoda an ode to regional cuisines at Folk, teams up with actor Mona Singh, who Marwah knows from her days as a media production executive. They first met on the sets of Jassi Jaisi Koi Nahi. “That’s where Jassi and Jasleen became friends,” Singh quips.
Bihari nimki with TP chutney and Turkish lamb kofta poie
While we indulge in friendly banter with the trio, Himachali mushroom siddu (Rs 349) arrives, as if straight from a local Himachal kitchen. The steamed bread, similar to a bao, is light, airy and packs in the punch of a spicy mushroom filling. Singh grew up in parts of North East and Goa since her father was in the Indian Army. “My parents hosted the best parties. As a family, we are foodies. We grew up eating different cuisines, from Kolkata’s egg rolls, to bamboo shoot sabzi from Assam, jhol momos of the North East, and Himachali food, which I love. Goa is my second home; poie and pork chorizo are my favourites,” she shares.
Himachali mushroom siddu and Spinach and cheese kataifi
The Turkish lamb kofta poie (R449) is a wholesome bite; though we prefer it without the mayo dip. The fermented poie has a mildly chewy crust with a soft interior that has soaked up the flavour of the meat. While they are currently sourcing it from a vendor, Marwah plans to make them in-house soon. Chutneys are celebrated, and accompany the dishes; a green pudina chutney amped with garlic and onions comes with the siddu, while the Bihari nimki that we tried earlier, is served with a hot chutney made from chillies and lemon with a mustard tadka.
Between an actor and a self-taught home chef turned restaurateur, the demure executive chef Neetu Solanki brings her experience of professional cooking to the table. With stints at Noma and Masque in her kitty, she helms the whimsically Indian bar menu. Marwah met Solanki on the set of Curries of India two years ago, and have been consulting on projects since. “Her skills translate all that we imagine into an actuality,” reveals Marwah to which Solanki adds, “My brief was to create a shareable, non-fussy menu to compliment the bar menu. I have wrapped authentic dishes in a comforting taste language.”
Madame Titli
Over the well-textured and easy-to-savour spinach and cheese kataifi (Rs 399) rolls, Singh tells us how she turned to her old friend when she decided to work towards setting up her dream restaurant. “Jasleen was always behind the scenes, handling production. Here, she is in the forefront. I’ve known her for nearly 20 years. And every time we bumped into each other socially, our conversation revolved around food,” recalls Singh.
The menu gets playful with Gangu Bai’s mandeli fry (Rs 349), another desi attempt to replace fries. We wash this down with Kill Bill (R599), a heady blend of tequila, jalapeño brine, pineapple juice and coriander leaves.
For the mains, we try the African-inspired jambalaya pasta (seafood and chicken mix) (Rs 649). It replaces the original recipe of rice with penne. On the palate, it tastes like desi teekha pasta. This, we pair with our last drink, Liplock (Rs 599). The concoction of tequila, pink grapefruit syrup and jalapeño doesn’t balance the spice and sweetness. While Kona Kona is spot-on with its food philosophy, the cocktails could do with a serious rethink.
Kona Kona Hospitality
AT Venture LLP, Unit No 27-30, Kuber Complex, New Link Road, Andheri West.
TIMe 12 pm to 1.30 am
CALL 9867880076
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