Heritage by so many names

Holy Name Cathedral during Christmastime. Pic/Fiona Fernandez

So, how was it? The Easter show. Apologies, I mean, the Easter service." Sir PM did a quick face-save with his friend before things went downhill. He knew better than to irritate Lady Flora with such schoolboy gaffes.

Lady Flora's near eye-roll when such instances occurred was all too familiar by now. Choosing to ignore it, she replied, "It was memorable as usual. I did a mini trail of sorts, this time… I began at St Thomas Cathedral, and then headed to Afghan Church, and finally rounded it off at Holy Name Cathedral. After all, I felt it was perfect, given we didn't exactly celebrate World Heritage Day, or the more official, International Day for Monuments and Sites. Oh Pheroze! Why didn't you answer your telephone? I was keen that you accompany me, at least for part of this special Easter Walk."

Sir PM looked downcast. He did have a longish Saturday siesta and told the missus to keep the phone off the ringer. "Well, it was my fault, entirely," carefully avoiding making any revelations. "The Captain also joined me for a few halts before having to head back to Poona." That last sentence was particularly painful for Sir PM to hear, but he could only silently kick himself in the shins for killing the opportunity.

Holy Name Cathedral during Christmastime. Pic/Fiona Fernandez

"St Thomas, despite being smaller than many other churches, has a magical aura to it. Plus, the plaques on its walls make it a veritable museum. You can spend hours learning about the military might of the British, and in many ways, develop a fair idea of the Empire's progress in Western India. The Afghan Church was like a wonderland in sculpted glass. Besides being a memorial for those who were martyred in the many Afghan Wars, I believe it is home to one of the finest assemblages of sculpted glass art in India." Sir PM was feeling worse by the minute. "I missed something special here, My Lady," he sighed. Tell me, did you also stop at the smaller churches along the stretch? I believe there are a few historic sites…" he prodded. "We halted at Wesley Methodist Church that was built around 1840, and has a stunning, still-operational Conacher Organ from Huddersfield, UK. The church is an oasis, cocooned in the din of a busy traffic signal outside, with plaques, stunning stained glass work and ornate carvings. But before that we dropped in to the Bowen Methodist Church set up in 1889, in memory of American missionary and author George Bowen who was fluent in Hindi and Marathi. The little church's spire and façade tend to get lost in the grimy streetscape outline, off Tulloch Road. But the biggest fact I discovered is that during the 26/11 attacks, the church had played sanctuary to many seeking refuge." Lady Flora was loving this avatar, where she was front and centre of the conversation, while her friend listened intently; the lone sore point was her companion, ‘The Captain' who seemed to have taken his place. "So, why did the Captain abandon you," he enquired, trying to dig deeper. "He didn't abandon me; it was a command from his senior to return to Poona for an urgent task. He's promised to return. He was actually hoping to meet you," she smiled. "We'll see about that," Sir PM mumbled under his breath, quickly changing the topic. "And was the RC Church in your plan?" he asked, hoping his bit knowledge of the area would make him sound a shade knowledgeable, especially since he was the native here.

"Absolutely. This church, the padre told me, was set up in 1853, and was the first church for stationed British Roman Catholics in the cantonment. It is called St Joseph's, but is popularly referred to as ‘RC Church'. I spotted two flags near the entrance, belonging to the Bombay Battalion, with the Queen's Colours, that date to 1893. Not too far away, I stumbled upon the Bombay Baptist Church (BBC), established in 1911 by Sir Henry Procter. Apparently, the original church was set up in Byculla in 1867 and it eventually settled in the present structure. And then, the stunning ceiling frescoes at Holy Name Cathedral rounded off things nicely. It's undergoing extensive renovation but to immerse ourselves in its historicity deserves a separate visit."

Holy Name Cathedral during Christmastime. Pic/Fiona Fernandez

Sir PM tried to make amends for his absence. "I was pestering Viegas today, when I rang him up to wish him for Easter, to show us some of the hidden gems in Dhobi Talao and Marine Lines. The area has already undergone massive change, and I cannot imagine what will become of it in five years' time." Lady Flora was intrigued, "Pheroze, we must. That would be wonderful."

"And trust him to throw in a humorous anecdote along the way. Apparently, some of the locals refer to the Our Lady of Dolours Church in Marine Lines as ‘Dollar-wallah church'!" Both were in splits, as they heard the church bells of the Cathedral ring, calling the faithful to prayer on Easter Sunday.

mid-day's Features Editor Fiona Fernandez relishes the city's sights, sounds, smells and stones...wherever the ink and the inclination takes her.
She tweets @bombayana. Send your feedback to mailbag@mid-day.com